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In July 2008 we traveled from Solitaire to Walvis Bay in Namibia. The route we took went through the dunes of the Namib Desert.
This was the second trip after the one we did earlier April.
This time we went with Francois Rossouw of Radio Sonder Grense (RSG) and his web site is www.rsg4x4klub.co.za
and the guides were Uri Adventures.
Thursday 3 July
We left home early and set off with our friends Kobus and Elsabe van Wyk. While trying to find the best road out we heard over the radio that Anton and Jessie Bruwer were on the way to the Richtersveld.
Jessie kindly offered her travel brochures and we spent a few minutes together before pressing on. Later that afternoon we saw their vehicle in Kuruman and we headed for Red Sands where we thought we might spend the night. Unfortunately they were full and they kindly phoned ahead to the hotel in Van Zylsrus where we managed to get a booking for the night.
On the way to the hotel we picked up Hardus Visagie on the radio also on his way to the Richtersveld.
On route we found a field of Jakalsbos (satin boneseed) flowers and I thought they were lovely. Strangely they were only in this one location and we never saw any more of them.
We arrived at the VanZylsrus Hotel in daylight and were impressed by the imaginative decorations in the patio and outside.
Our room also had a lovely washbasin which was unique.
It was quite cold but we had a comfortable room and spent a good night there.
Friday 4 July
The next morning we set off for the border at Rietfontein. On the way we stopped at Askham and spent a few minutes with Hannetjie van der Westhuizen who runs the local shop and guest house. Had we known she had room for us we would have traveled there.We had no plans where we would spend the night and we considered Keetmanshoop. However we made good progress and decided to aim for Mariental. On arrival we were fortunate enough to get accommodation at Koha Guest House again where we also had a lovely dinner.
Saturday 5 July
Off we set in the direction of Solitaire, having no clue where we would spend the night.
On the way just after Sossusvlei we went to a lodge and enquired about accommodation and they kindly referred us to the Guest Farm at Solitaire where we managed to get a place for the four of us to sleep in the stone hut.
We rearranged the furniture and made an extra bedroom out of the kitchen and slept happily. Sylvia and I had a bed and Kobus and Elsabe slept on mattresses placed on the floor. Dinner consisted of kudu sosaties at the faire at Solitaire. These were very tasty and supplied with bretchen. The fair was a bit poorly and the weather was cold. There were only about five contributors/participants - the sosate man, a knife manufacturer, a garden furniture seller, a paint ball course, and a noisy band.
Sunday 6 July
We decided to drive the Remhoogte and Spreetshoogte passes and this was most enjoyable.
We also found traces of previous mining activity which looked like diamond or precious stone retrieval. But now it looked like bankruptcy.
Later that afternoon we set up camp at Solitaire and started to meet the people who would be joining us in the dunes.
Monday 7 July
The group set off from Solitaire
and we remained at the back of the queue so we could take pictures.
There was lots of grass but it was not as green as on our earlier trip. The fairy circles were there too.
I took special note of the trees discussed in my earlier report and this time - guess what - no leaves. There were signs that animals had chomped on them. But there were two different looking plants which may actually have been the same species. Maybe someone will offer an expert opinion about these plants.
That night we camped overlooking the dry Kuiseb River and we set up camp well before the sun set.
Tuesday 8 July
We traveled down a steep path into the now dry Kuiseb River. Last time we saw it there was lots of water.
Here it is fascinating to see how abruptly the desert ends. To the north there is no red sand to be seen in this area.
We then exited the river and traveled on a sand road further west where we entered the dune area again.
Unfortunately at this stage one of our party's car failed to engage the front wheel drive and it was immediately apparent that you need a 4x4 to drive in the dunes.
In this picture you can clearly see the back wheels churning while the front wheels remain still.
The vehicle even lost traction on the flat soft sand.
This problem could not be resolved and the vehicle was left here. The driver became a passenger in the lead car from then on.
The remainder of the vehicles drove on to over the dunes to our camp site.
Wednesday 9 July
It was cold and we were grateful for the red jackets GoodYear had sponsored
It was very cold.
The day was spent driving in the dunes.
At one stage we found a side winder.
I had always thought that they were bigger. This one went down the dune and a lizard spotted it. The snake began to bury itself in the sand and the lizard came closer. Suddenly it went too close and the snake struck and grabbed it. Then they both disappeared in the slip face.
That night the wind came up and it was cold.
Thursday 10 July
We drove to the sea.
We took second place now as I am terrified of the sea when my vehicle is near. Sylvia drove while I swore.
Happily we drove quite far from the waves most of the time and the sea was further from the dunes than on previous occasions.
There are some places where it would be quite dangerous if you caught the tide at the wrong time.
As we were in front this time I got a chance to photograph the shipwreck again. There was not much left to see and few stopped to look.
Further along we again looked at the Edward Bolen and it seems to be deteriorating fast.
That afternoon we set up camp among the rocks and there was some protection from the wind.
Friday 11 July
We drove out and looked at theremains of some of the mining villages. In a few years there will probably be nothing left to see.
Very few items remain but here a few kitchen fittings can still be seen.
There were the usual Jackals around.
Saturday 12 July
We drove through the dunes to Lauberville where there were hot showers. This was a real luxury.
Sunday 13 July
We said farewell to the group and headed off with our friends to find accommodation that night in Swakopmund. The places we visited were all full or could only let us stay one night and we wanted two. In spite of this we saw very few people about.
Eventually we got a lovely two roomed apartment at Footprints. Here we re-packed a few of our bits and pieces and our wives did some clothes washing.
The sun shone brightly for a while and then the mist rolled in and it was cold.
Monday 14 July
We had breakfast in town and walked the streets we had walked a few months previously. The difference was that we had a vehicle nearby.
Later that morning we had the vehicles cleaned and oiled. Hopefully we got rid of all the salt.
We had considered going south but the weather reports were gloomy so we decided to try and go back via Mata Mata.
That night Kobus managed to get a booking at Twee Rivieren for two days via the Internet.
Tuesday 15 July
We headed south and stayed at Koha Guest house in Mariental again where we also had dinner.
Wednesday 16 July
We set off at 7am from Twee Rivieren and arrived at Mata Mata at 10:30am
The roads in the Kalagadi Gemsbok Park were probably a bit worse than on our previous visit.
Two lions were spotted on a ridge but they were quite far away. Kobus took this picture which is much better than mine.
We also saw a collared cheetah and its cub.
Kobus and Elsabe arrived in Twee Rivieren before the customs closed but we arrived at 16:15 just too late.
Thursday 17 July
We went and presented our passports and had them stamped.
Then we drove the Leeudril 4x4 route where we saw whistling rats. Kobus and I took pictures and Kobus mentioned that they must be the most photographed rats in the Kalahari.
Friday 18 July
We could only escape from the park at 7:30 - which we did. We arrived home and the GPS went into night mode just as we arrived in the driveway.
Some further information:
1 We traveled about 4800 kilometres in total.
2. From Solitaire to Swakopmund we used 223,75 litres at R9:82 = R2197.25
3. It was sometimes cold - especially at night.
4. Sylvia drove in the dunes.
5. Stuart Baillie made modifications which enabled Sylvia to engage the centre differential lock in our automatic gearbox in high range and this helped in the sand.